Near a thousand of years the Roman Forum (Foro Romano) was the beating heart of the ancient city, the centre of an empire, including in its boundaries almost the entire world, the European people of that time knew. Today, the only thing that has remained from the forum are its scattered romantic ruins, although its melancholy beauty and countless historic works have turned it into one of the most important archaeological sites on the Old Continent. For centuries long the forum has been reconstructed and new buildings have been added. Because if this, today, its monuments are rather complicating. Don't expect to go into ecstasies over its ancient grandeur, just come to enjoy the traces of the past splendour and the unobtrusive charm of the square that was once one of the most important places in Rome and the world.
On the site of the Forum there was a swampy valley, spreading between the Palatine and Capitoline Hill. During the early Iron Age it was occupied by a grave yard, on the outskirts of the settlement and the name "forum" probably came from its situation, for "forum" in Latin means "outside". Later here was the dung-hill of the nearby villages and after that a market place. The first monuments on this place most likely date back to the 7th century BC, during the time of the first Etruscan kings. When the Roman Empire was in its zenith, all buildings, related to the civil, religious and political life, were concentrated on the Forum. The houses of the patricians, the stores, the temples and market-places contested the limited space. Merchants, politicians and emperors compete with each other to build the vacant area with more and more magnificent monuments. In the 2nd century AD the building fever calmed down as there was no free space any more. But the place retained its vital importance of a symbolic focus of the city life, although the political authority moved to the Palatine Hill, the commerce - to the Trajan's Market (Mercato Traiano) and the new structures - to the Imperial Forums.
After the decay of Rome, the time said its heavy word. During the 3d century the forum was devastated by a huge fire, after that - by earthquakes and barbarian invasions in 5th century. During the Middle Ages its stones were ravaged for the construction of various churches and palaces and the valuable marble was turned into powder in the lime-kilns of the builders. Eventually on the place of the forum there was nothing left and people started to use it as a pasture-ground. Overall archaeological excavations have been made on the site since the end of 18th century.
Before going to see the ruins, it is most recommended to take a look of the entire forum. The best views of it reveal from Piazza del Campidoglio and from the steps behind the Senate Palace (Palazzo Senatorio). You need a map of the ruins and a considerable amount of imagination to create a rough idea of what the place looked like in ancient times. With a guide tour only the best preserved and most indicative monuments. From the main entrance on Via dei Fori Imperiali go to the right along Via Sacra, the main street of the ancient Forum, follow a route almost counter-clockwise. This way you will reach the Arch of Titus, from where you can direct your steps towards the Palatine Hill or directly to the Coliseum.
The first interesting monument you will see to the right is the Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina (Tempio di Antonio e Faustina 141 AD). It is among the best preserved structures on the Forum only because in 11th century it was turned into a church devoted to San Lorenzo in Miranda. The initial temple was built by the Emperor Antoninus Pius in honour of his wife Faustina (the rumour in Rome from this time says that he was the only one who didn’t know about her numerous cheatings). Behind the temple, to the left, is situated the Basilca Aemilia (179 BC), which was once the seat of contractors and banker and, if the rumour is true, it was one of the most beautiful buildings on the Forum. It was destroyed during the invasion of Visigoths (West Goths) in 410, leaded by their king Alaric.
At the end of Via Sacra there are two buildings, which can not be mistaken - the strict brick structure of the curia and the Arch of Septimius Severus (Arco di Settimio Severo). The area in front of them was called "comitium", probably the first important meeting place on the Forum, a major centre of the early social, legal and civil life in the city. Here were held various processions, burials and sacrifices. In its halls the local politicians gathered to vote and in the courts the praetor issued its sentences. The Roman Senate, consisting of 300 senators, sit in the curia, which was turned into a church during the 7th century. The Arch of Septimius Severus was erected in honour of his military victories and its four fundamental bas-reliefs represent battle scenes, with the goddess of Victory and scenes glorifying the emperor's two sons - Geta and Caracalla.
Under the arch, within the area of the comitium, you will see the ruined brick wall of Rostra Vetera, a tribune of orators, taking its name from the bronze "rostra" - the prow of the battle ships. With the bronze prow the battle ship attacked the enemy ships. After a victory in a naval battle, the rostras of the enemy ships were taken as loot and were used for the decoration for the Rostra Vetera Tribune. According to a legend, exactly on this tribune, after the assassination of Julius Cesar, Marcus Antonius pronounced the famous speech "Friends, Romans, Countrymen…". Behind the arch and to the left, the eight grey-red columns of the temple devoted to Saturn (Tempio di Saturno) stand. This is the oldest and the most honoured temple on the Forum, built in 479 BC. Saturn was the god of agriculture and fertility and was one of the most popular gods, as it was considered in the beginning that Rome obtains its might from the agricultural skills of its citizens. Again in this temple was kept the treasure-house with the state gold and silver reserve.
If you stand with your back to the Temple of Saturn you will see in front of you and to the right the Basilica Julia (Basilica Giulia), built in 54 BC and used as the central low courts. Behind it stand the three lonely columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux (Tempio di Castore e Polluce). Beyond them you will see the two most thrilling sights on the Forum - the Temple of Vesta (Tempio di Vesta), a goddess of the of the hearth and of sacred fire, and the Atrium of Vestal Virgins (Atrium Vestae). The Temple of Vesta kept the eternal sacred fire of Rome, a representation of the city’s welfare and prosperity. On the first day of the Roman year (1st of March) the citizens of Rome extinguished ritually the hearths in their houses to fire them again from this sacred fire. It was believed that if the fire, kept by the vestal virgins, extinguished, this is the worst possible omen, prophesying the fall of Rome. Each year, on 15th of June the ash of the sacred fire was throw about over the River Tiber as a part of a pagan ritual in glorification of the succession and renewal.
To the left of the Atrium of Vestal Virgins stands the Basilica of Maxentius (Basilica di Massenzio 306 AD) with three huge vaults, turning it into one of the most imposing sights on the Forum. The Arch of Titus (Arco di Tito) is situated at the eastern entrance. It was built in 81 AD to honour the conquest of Jerusalem by the emperor and his legions. The bas-reliefs on the arch portray the triumphal return of Titus to Rome and the carrying treasures out of the holy Jewish city.