Cheerful, graceful and surrounded by ancient walls, overgrown by green plants and trees, Lucca is an attractive mixture of pretty squares with unique spirit, little churches, museums, galleries and cobble-stoned streets. From all Tuscan cities, towns and settlements, only Florence and Siena can rival it in terms of beauty and picturesqueness.
The street plan of Lucca's historic centre resembles a grating, thanks to the Romans and their conception for urban architecture. In the time of the Goths and Langobards, the city became a capital of Tuscany. During the Middle Ages it mended its fortune thanks to the silk commerce and even until present day Lucca is known for producing some of the most quality Italian underwear. In 14th century the City-Republic of Lucca conquered Pisa, Pistoia and even almost managed to defeat Florence. The next centuries the city lived a decline but remained independent state until the coming of Napoleon. The Bourbon dynasty ruled Lucca until the unification of Italy.
Most of the main city sights are compactly situated in the area within the medieval city walls. The best plan to start your sightseeing tour is to use the cathedral as a base and to walk eastwards or to start from the main square Piazza San Michele and go northwards.
A few churches are as impressive at the very fist sight as San Michele in Foro, built on the site of the ancient Roman forum of the city. Its stunning façade will amaze you with the typical for the Pisan-Romanesque style marble decoration and the unique little loggias, blind arcades and inventively tortuous columns. The strict interior is not so inspiring mainly because the major amount of the collected money was spent for the exterior of the church. However, there is a remarkable art work inside too. This is "Saints Sebastian, Jerome, Helen and Roch", made by Filippino Lippi and located at the end of the southern nave.
The great Italian composer Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca. His birth house is just a stone's throw from San Michele in Foro. Today it is a museum devoted to his life.
The other cathedral of Lucca Duomo de San Martino also has an impressive façade. It is located at a square with the same name. The most significant art works in it are the 13th-century carvings around the atrium and the main entrance. The reliefs on the door of the right transept were made by the famous 13th-century sculpture Nicola Pisano. The paintings between the transepts, depicting scenes from the life of San Martino, were created in the beginning of the 13th century by the main architecture of the facade - Giudetto da Como. Inside the cathedral, along the main nave you will reach a sumptuous octagonal chapel, called Tempieto or the Small Temple. It was worked out in 15th century to shelter the most honorable Volto Santo or the Holy Face, a crucifix of cedar wood, for which it is claimed that is an exact semblance of Jesus, made by Nicodemus who took part in the deposing of the Jesus Christ’s body in the tomb. In fact, it is more likely that this crucifix is a 13th-century copy of an earlier one from 8th century.
With a greater art value is the Tomb of Ilaria del Caretto from 1410. It is locate in the vestiarium. Ilaria del Caretto was the wife of Paolo Guinigi, one of the most powerful medieval rulers of Lucca. The tomb sculpture was created by the famous sculptor from Siena - Jacopo della Quercia. This is one of the most beautiful statues in Italy. Especially touching is the small dog of Ilaria, symbolizing her fidelity.
With the same ticket from the vestiarium you can visit the Cathedral Museum, situated next to it at Piazza Antelminelli, as well as the neighbor church of Santissimi Giovanni e Reparata, where during archaeological excavations were found remains from Roman buildings.
South from the cathedral you should climb the high city walls for a spectacular panoramic view over the historic centre. Walk eastwards and soon you will reach the Botanical Garden. If you like greenery and exotic plant, you will probably want to see the garden of the nearby Villa Bottini too. A couple a steps in western direction from here, you will find the charming but unfinished 13th-century church Santa Maria Forisportam or St. Mary outside the Walls. Performed in the enchanting Pisan-Romanesque style, it marks the border between the Roman and the medieval parts of the city.
In northern direction from here you can stroll to the strangest sight of Lucca - the House of Guinigi. It is most famous with the impressive tower commanding scenic views over the city.
Another building commissioned by Guinigi in the first quarter of 15th century is Villa Guinigi. Today it houses the Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi. Its exhibition includes various archaeological finds, medieval paintings, sculptures and fabrics.
From Piazza san Michele you can follow the main street of Lucca Via Fillungo and reach the fascinating Square Anfiteatro where the medieval buildings follow the oval of the ancient Roman amphitheatre, on the site of which they were erected.
A short walk to east can be found another real pearl - the little church of San Pietro Somaldi. To the same short distance but in north-western direction is another beautiful church - San Frediano, dating back to the first half of 12th century. South-west from it you can see Palazzo Pfanner and Museo Nationale di Palazzo Mansi, which splendid decoration in Rococo style is an ideal backdrop for a considerable collection of paintings.